Tree removal is a serious undertaking, and understanding the right techniques is crucial for safety and efficiency. One key aspect is knowing when to fell a tree. While sometimes removal is an emergency due to storm damage or disease, often it's a planned event. Choosing the right time can minimize risks and even benefit the surrounding landscape.
Winter is often considered the ideal season for tree felling. The dormant state of the tree means less sap flow, making the wood lighter and easier to handle. Frozen ground also provides a stable working surface, reducing the risk of equipment getting bogged down and making cleanup easier. Plus, with leaves gone, visibility is improved, allowing for more precise cuts and better assessment of potential hazards.
However, winter isn't always feasible. Sometimes a tree poses an immediate threat, requiring removal regardless of the season. In these cases, extra precautions are necessary. During spring and summer, the tree's full canopy can make judging its fall path more difficult. The softer ground can also create challenges for equipment stability. Autumn presents its own set of considerations. While the leaves changing color can be beautiful, they can also obscure branches and make assessing the tree's structure more complex. Falling leaves create slippery conditions, and the ground, while not frozen, can still be soft from recent rains.
Regardless of the season, a professional arborist will consider several factors before felling a tree. These include the tree's species, size, lean, and proximity to structures or power lines. They'll also assess the surrounding environment, including the terrain, wind conditions, and the presence of other trees. A thorough evaluation allows them to select the most appropriate felling technique and ensure a safe and successful removal. So, while understanding the ideal timing for tree removal is helpful, relying on the expertise of a qualified professional is always the best approach.
Safety is paramount when it comes to tree removal. It's not just about getting the tree down; it's about doing it without incident or injury. Tree removal services prioritize safety precautions because the risks involved are significant. Falling trees, heavy branches, and the use of powerful equipment create a hazardous environment if not handled correctly.
One of the first steps any reputable tree service takes is a thorough assessment of the tree and its surroundings. This includes identifying potential hazards like power lines, nearby structures, and the tree's lean and condition. This assessment informs the removal strategy and helps determine the necessary safety measures.
Protecting the work zone is critical. This often involves setting up barriers and warning signs to keep bystanders and unauthorized personnel at a safe distance. Trained professionals use specialized equipment like ropes, harnesses, and aerial lifts to access and remove trees safely. These tools allow for controlled cutting and lowering of branches and sections of the trunk, minimizing the risk of uncontrolled falls.
Personal protective equipment (PPE) is non-negotiable. Helmets, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and sturdy boots are essential for all crew members. Chainsaw chaps provide crucial protection against accidental cuts. Regular equipment inspections and maintenance are also vital for ensuring everything is in optimal working condition.
Weather conditions play a significant role in tree removal safety. High winds, heavy rain, or lightning storms create extremely dangerous conditions. Reputable services will postpone work until conditions improve. Even seemingly minor details like the ground's condition can impact stability, so these factors are always taken into consideration.
Finally, communication is key. Clear and consistent communication between crew members is essential for coordinated efforts and quick responses to any unexpected situations. A well-defined emergency plan is also crucial in case of accidents. By adhering to these safety precautions, tree removal services can ensure the job is done efficiently and, most importantly, safely.
When you picture tree removal, you might imagine a couple of guys with chainsaws and a truck. While that's a simplified view, it touches on the core truth: specialized equipment is essential for safe and efficient tree removal. The tools used range from the familiar to the highly technical, each playing a vital role in getting the job done right.
Chainsaws are the workhorses of the industry, used for felling trees and cutting them into manageable pieces. Different sizes and types of chainsaws exist, each suited to a particular task. For larger trees, arborists often employ aerial lifts, also known as bucket trucks, to reach high branches and dismantle the tree piece by piece. These lifts provide a stable platform for workers, ensuring safety and precision.
Ropes and rigging are crucial for controlling the descent of branches and sections of the trunk, preventing damage to property below. Specialized rigging techniques allow arborists to guide even large limbs down with remarkable accuracy. Cranes are sometimes necessary for very large trees or those located in tight spaces where other equipment can't access. These powerful machines can lift entire sections of the tree, minimizing disruption to the surrounding area.
Beyond the heavy machinery, smaller tools play a vital role. Wood chippers process branches and smaller logs into wood chips, which can be used for landscaping or disposed of easily. Stump grinders are used to remove the remaining stump below ground level, eliminating a tripping hazard and improving the aesthetics of the property. Hand tools like axes, wedges, and pruners are also essential for smaller tasks and precision cuts.
The equipment used in tree removal is constantly evolving, with new technologies and techniques improving safety and efficiency. Choosing the right tools for the job is a critical part of any tree removal project, ensuring the safety of both the crew and the surrounding property. A skilled arborist will carefully assess the tree and its surroundings to select the most appropriate equipment and approach, resulting in a smooth and successful removal process.
Post-removal cleanup and debris disposal is a crucial aspect of professional tree removal services, often overlooked in the initial planning stages. Imagine having a majestic oak removed, finally opening up your yard to sunlight, only to be left with a landscape resembling a battlefield strewn with branches, sawdust, and a massive stump. A reputable tree service understands that removing the tree is just half the battle; restoring your property to a clean and usable state is equally important.
This cleanup process involves much more than just tossing branches into a truck. Skilled crews meticulously gather every last twig, leaf, and wood chip. Larger branches are often chipped on-site, providing you with valuable mulch for your garden or landscaping needs. The remaining trunk and larger pieces are hauled away, ensuring your property isn't left cluttered and hazardous. Stump grinding services can also be included, eliminating the unsightly remnant and preventing future tripping hazards.
Proper debris disposal is not just about aesthetics, it's also about environmental responsibility. Professional services understand the importance of adhering to local regulations regarding green waste disposal. They ensure that wood, leaves, and other organic materials are disposed of correctly, often through composting or recycling programs. This commitment to eco-friendly practices minimizes the impact on landfills and contributes to a healthier environment.
Choosing a tree service that includes comprehensive post-removal cleanup and debris disposal is an investment in the long-term health and beauty of your property. It saves you the time, effort, and potential backache of dealing with the aftermath yourself. It also provides peace of mind knowing that the job will be done thoroughly and responsibly, leaving you with a clean slate to enjoy your newly opened space. So, when considering tree removal, remember to look beyond the felling itself and inquire about the crucial cleanup services that complete the job.
Arboriculture (/ˈɑËÂÂrbÉ™rɪˌkÊŒltʃər, É‘ËÂÂrˈbÉâ€ÂËÂÂr-/)[1] is the cultivation, management, and study of individual trees, shrubs, vines, and other perennial woody plants. The science of arboriculture studies how these plants grow and respond to cultural practices and to their environment. The practice of arboriculture includes cultural techniques such as selection, planting, training, fertilization, pest and pathogen control, pruning, shaping, and removal.
A person who practices or studies arboriculture can be termed an arborist or an arboriculturist. A tree surgeon is more typically someone who is trained in the physical maintenance and manipulation of trees and therefore more a part of the arboriculture process rather than an arborist. Risk management, legal issues, and aesthetic considerations have come to play prominent roles in the practice of arboriculture. Businesses often need to hire arboriculturists to complete "tree hazard surveys" and generally manage the trees on-site to fulfill occupational safety and health obligations.[citation needed]
Arboriculture is primarily focused on individual woody plants and trees maintained for permanent landscape and amenity purposes, usually in gardens, parks or other populated settings, by arborists, for the enjoyment, protection, and benefit of people.[citation needed]
Arboricultural matters are also considered to be within the practice of urban forestry yet the clear and separate divisions are not distinct or discreet.[citation needed]
Tree benefits are the economic, ecological, social and aesthetic use, function purpose, or services of a tree (or group of trees), in its situational context in the landscape.
A tree defect is any feature, condition, or deformity of a tree that indicates weak structure or instability that could contribute to tree failure.
Common types of tree defects:
Codominant stems: two or more stems that grow upward from a single point of origin and compete with one another.
Included bark: bark is incorporated in the joint between two limbs, creating a weak attachment
Dead, diseased, or broken branches:
Cracks
Cavity and hollows: sunken or open areas wherein a tree has suffered injury followed by decay. Further indications include: fungal fruiting structures, insect or animal nests.
Lean: a lean of more than 40% from vertical presents a risk of tree failure
Taper: change in diameter over the length of trunks branches and roots
Epicormic branches (water sprouts in canopy or suckers from root system): often grow in response to major damage or excessive pruning
Roots:
Proper tree installation ensures the long-term viability of the tree and reduces the risk of tree failure.
Quality nursery stock must be used. There must be no visible damage or sign of disease. Ideally the tree should have good crown structure. A healthy root ball should not have circling roots and new fibrous roots should be present at the soil perimeter. Girdling or circling roots should be pruned out. Excess soil above the root flare should be removed immediately, since it presents a risk of disease ingress into the trunk.
Appropriate time of year to plant: generally fall or early spring in temperate regions of the northern hemisphere.
Planting hole: the planting hole should be 3 times the width of the root ball. The hole should be dug deep enough that when the root ball is placed on the substrate, the root flare is 3–5cm above the surrounding soil grade. If soil is left against the trunk, it may lead to bark, cambium and wood decay. Angular sides to the planting hole will encourage roots to grow radially from the trunk, rather than circling the planting hole. In urban settings, soil preparation may include the use of:
Tree wells: a zone of mulch can be installed around the tree trunk to: limit root zone competition (from turf or weeds), reduce soil compaction, improve soil structure, conserve moisture, and keep lawn equipment at a distance. No more than 5–10cm of mulch should be used to avoid suffocating the roots. Mulch must be kept approximately 20cm from the trunk to avoid burying the root flare. With city trees additional tree well preparation includes:
Tree grates/grill and frames: limit compaction on root zone and mechanical damage to roots and trunk
Root barriers: forces roots to grow down under surface asphalt/concrete/pavers to limit infrastructure damage from roots
Staking: newly planted, immature trees should be staked for one growing season to allow for the root system to establish. Staking for longer than one season should only be considered in situations where the root system has failed to establish sufficient structural support. Guy wires can be used for larger, newly planted trees. Care must be used to avoid stem girdling from the support system ties.
Irrigation: irrigation infrastructure may be installed to ensure a regular water supply throughout the lifetime of the tree. Wicking beds are an underground reservoir from which water is wicked into soil. Watering bags may be temporarily installed around tree stakes to provide water until the root system becomes established. Permeable paving allows for water infiltration in paved urban settings, such as parks and walkways.
Within the United Kingdom trees are considered as a material consideration within the town planning system and may be conserved as amenity landscape[2] features.
The role of the Arborist or Local Government Arboricultural Officer is likely to have a great effect on such matters. Identification of trees of high quality which may have extensive longevity is a key element in the preservation of trees.
Urban and rural trees may benefit from statutory protection under the Town and Country Planning[3] system. Such protection can result in the conservation and improvement of the urban forest as well as rural settlements.
Historically the profession divides into the operational and professional areas. These might be further subdivided into the private and public sectors. The profession is broadly considered as having one trade body known as the Arboricultural Association, although the Institute of Chartered Foresters offers a route for professional recognition and chartered arboriculturist status.
The qualifications associated with the industry range from vocational to Doctorate. Arboriculture is a comparatively young industry.
Pruning is a horticultural, arboricultural, and silvicultural practice involving the selective removal of certain parts of a plant, such as branches, buds, or roots.
The practice entails the targeted removal of diseased, damaged, dead, non-productive, structurally unsound, or otherwise unwanted plant material from crop and landscape plants. In general, the smaller the branch that is cut, the easier it is for a woody plant to compartmentalize the wound and thus limit the potential for pathogen intrusion and decay. It is therefore preferable to make any necessary formative structural pruning cuts to young plants, rather than removing large, poorly placed branches from mature plants.
Woody plants may undergo a process referred to as "self-pruning", where they will drop twigs or branches which are no longer producing more energy than they require. It is theorized that this process can also occur in response to lack of water, in order to reduce the surface area where water can be lost.[1] This natural shedding of branches is called cladoptosis.
Specialized pruning practices may be applied to certain plants, such as roses, fruit trees, and grapevines. Different pruning techniques may be used on herbaceous plants than those used on perennial woody plants.
Reasons to prune plants include deadwood removal, shaping (by controlling or redirecting growth), improving or sustaining health, reducing risk from falling branches, preparing nursery specimens for transplanting, and both harvesting and increasing the yield or quality of flowers and fruits.
Branch wood is an individual stem that grows off of another stem.
Trunk wood is the main stem of a tree which individual stems grow out of.
This refers to the area below the union of where branch wood attaches with the trunk/stem wood. This can often appear raised.
This refers to the junction between branch wood and trunk/stem wood. It usually looks raised. [2]
Pruning in an urban setting is crucial due to the tree being in drastically different conditions than where it naturally grows.[3]
Arborists, orchardists, and gardeners use various garden tools and tree cutting tools designed for the purpose, such as secateurs, loppers, handsaws, or chainsaws.[4] Additionally in forestry, pole pruners (averruncators in British English) and pole saws are commonly used, and these are often attached to poles that reach up to 5–6 m (16–20 ft). This is a more efficient and safer way of pruning than with ladders. These bush saws on polls have also been motorized as chainsaws which is even more efficient. Older technology used Billhooks, Kaiser blades, and pruning knives. Although still used in some coppicing, they are not used so much in commercial forestry due to the difficulty of cutting flush with the stem. Flush cuts happen when a pruner cuts into the cambium layer of the main trunk, which can happen when a pruner is not precise with pruning cuts, and removes a portion of the branch collar, which can put the tree at risk of entry cords from forest pathogens.
Although there are several different types of pruning, they can be simplified into two categories. One of which is cutting the branch back to a specific and intermediate point, called a "reduction cut", and the other of which is completely removing a branch back to the union where the branch connects which the main trunk, called "removal cut".[5]
A "reduction cut" is when one removes a portion of a growing stem down to a set of desirable buds or side-branching stems. This is commonly performed in well trained plants for a variety of reasons, for example to stimulate growth of flowers, fruit or branches, as a preventive measure to wind and snow damage on long stems and branches, and finally to encourage growth of the stems in a desirable direction.
In orchards, fruit trees are often lopped to encourage regrowth and to maintain a smaller tree for ease of picking fruit. The pruning regime in orchards is more planned, and the productivity of each tree is an important factor.
Branches die off for a number of reasons including sunlight deficiency, pest and disease damage, and root structure damage. A dead branch will at some point decay back to the parent stem and fall off. This is normally a slow process but can be hastened by high winds or extreme temperatures. The main reason deadwooding is performed is safety. Situations that usually demand removal of deadwood include trees that overhang public roads, houses, public areas, power lines, telephone cables and gardens. Trees located in wooded areas are usually assessed as lower risk but assessments consider the number of visitors. Trees adjacent to footpaths and access roads are often considered for deadwood removal.[8]
Another reason for deadwooding is amenity value, i.e. a tree with a large amount of deadwood throughout the crown will look more aesthetically pleasing with the deadwood removed. The physical practice of deadwooding can be carried out most of the year though should be avoided when the tree is coming into leaf. The deadwooding process speeds up the tree's natural abscission process. It also reduces unwanted weight and wind resistance and can help overall balance.
Preventative and structural pruning can be done to mitigate several issues young trees may have in the future. The structural pruning can reduce tree stress, increase the lifespan of trees, and promotes resistance to damage due to natural weather events. Attributes of trees with good structure include excurrent growth by having a single dominant leader, branch unions without included bark, and a balanced canopy. Structural pruning does this by developing or maintaining a dominant leader, identify the lowest branches in the canopy, prevent branches below the permanent canopy from growing too large, keeping all branches less than one half the trunk diameter, space main branches along one dominant trunk, and suppress growth on branches with included bark. [9]
Subordination pruning is done on limbs that will exceed 50% percent of the stem diameter. A reduction cut may be performed while still allowing about 50% of the branch. This is done to help maintain form and deter the formation of co-dominant leaders. Temporary branches may be too large for a removal cut so subordination pruning should be done to slowly reduce a limb by 50% each year to allow the tree to properly heal from the cut. As a tree becomes larger the slower it grows. Reducing the larger limbs for eventual removal will allow for the tree to promote new growth rather than using energy in encouraging unwanted limbs to continue to grow. Removing a large branch increases the likelihood of the cut to not heal properly which also may attract insects, diseases and fungus. [9][10]
Crown thinning is the removal of live healthy branches which increases light penetration, air circulation and reduces wind resistance which reduces risks from damage and the possibility of pest infestation. [11]
Crown raising involves the removal of the lower branches to a given height. The height is achieved by the removal of whole branches or removing the parts of branches which extend below the desired height. The branches are normally not lifted to more than one third of the tree's total height.
Crown lifting is done for access; these being pedestrian, vehicle or space for buildings and street furniture. Lifting the crown will allow traffic and pedestrians to pass underneath safely. This pruning technique is usually used in the urban environment as it is for public safety and aesthetics rather than tree form and timber value.
Crown lifting introduces light to the lower part of the trunk; this, in some species can encourage epicormic growth from dormant buds. To reduce this sometimes smaller branches are left on the lower part of the trunk. Excessive removal of the lower branches can displace the canopy weight, this will make the tree top heavy, therefore adding stress to the tree. When a branch is removed from the trunk, it creates a large wound. This wound is susceptible to disease and decay, and could lead to reduced trunk stability. Therefore, much time and consideration must be taken when choosing the height the crown is to be lifted to.
This would be an inappropriate operation if the tree species’ form was of a shrubby nature. This would therefore remove most of the foliage and would also largely unbalance the tree. This procedure should not be carried out if the tree is in decline, poor health or dead, dying or dangerous (DDD) as the operation will remove some of the photosynthetic area the tree uses. This will increase the decline rate of the tree and could lead to death.
If the tree is of great importance to an area or town, (i.e. veteran or ancient) then an alternative solution to crown lifting would be to move the target or object so it is not in range. For example, diverting a footpath around a tree's drip line so the crown lift is not needed. Another solution would be to prop up or cable-brace the low hanging branch. This is a non-invasive solution which in some situations may be more economical and environmentally friendly. [12]
Selectively pruning a window of view in a tree.
Reducing the height and or spread of a tree by selectively cutting back to smaller branches and in fruit trees for increasing of light interception and enhancing fruit quality.
A regular form of pruning where certain deciduous species are pruned back to pollard heads every year in the dormant period. This practice is usually commenced on juvenile trees so they can adapt to the harshness of the practice. This practice can be used for tree shaping but is also used in specific species which young branches can be sold for floral arrangements.
Deadheading is the act of removing spent flowers or flowerheads for aesthetics, to prolong bloom for up to several weeks or promote rebloom, or to prevent seeding.
In general, pruning deadwood and small branches can be done at any time of year. Depending on the species, many temperate plants can be pruned either during dormancy in winter, or, for species where winter frost can harm a recently pruned plant, after flowering is completed. In the temperate areas of the northern hemisphere autumn pruning should be avoided, as the spores of disease and decay fungi are abundant at this time of year.
Some woody plants tend to bleed profusely from cuts, such as mesquite and maple. Some callus over slowly, such as magnolia. In this case, they are better pruned during active growth when they can more readily heal. Woody plants that flower early in the season, on spurs that form on wood that has matured the year before, such as apples, should be pruned right after flowering as later pruning will sacrifice flowers the following season. Forsythia, azaleas and lilacs all fall into this category.