Choosing the right chainsaw and keeping it in top shape is crucial for safe and efficient work, whether you're felling trees, pruning limbs, or bucking firewood. It's just as important as selecting the right wedge for splitting or the right rope for controlled lowering. Getting the chainsaw part wrong can mean anything from a frustratingly slow job to a serious accident.
First, size matters. A small, lightweight saw is perfect for limbing and light cutting, but it'll struggle with larger trees. For those, you'll need a more powerful saw with a longer bar. Think about the kind of wood you'll be cutting, too. Hardwoods demand more power than softwoods. Don't overbuy, though. A bigger saw is heavier and harder to handle, increasing fatigue and the risk of injury.
Once you've got your saw, maintenance is key. A sharp chain is essential for safety and performance. A dull chain makes the saw work harder, increasing the risk of kickback – a sudden, violent upward movement of the guide bar that can cause serious injury. Learn how to sharpen your chain properly with a file or invest in a sharpening kit. Check the chain tension regularly, too. A loose chain can derail, while a tight chain can damage the saw.
Beyond the chain, keep the air filter clean and replace it when necessary. A clogged filter reduces engine power and increases fuel consumption. Check the spark plug and replace it periodically. Keep the bar and chain oiled, using the correct type of bar oil. And finally, before each use, inspect the saw for any damage or loose parts.
Choosing and maintaining a chainsaw is a bit like looking after any other essential piece of equipment. Take the time to select the right one for the job, and then treat it with respect. Regular maintenance not only extends the life of the saw but, more importantly, keeps you safe and productive in the woods. Just like having the right wedges and ropes, a well-maintained chainsaw is a vital part of working safely and effectively.
Wedges are unsung heroes in the world of equipment, often overlooked but essential for a variety of tasks. These simple tools, relying on the power of inclined planes, multiply force to achieve incredible results. Think of them as portable ramps that you can jam into place. When you apply force to the wide end, that force is concentrated onto the narrow edge, allowing you to split, lift, secure, or tighten things far more effectively than you could with brute strength alone.
When it comes to equipment like chainsaws, ropes, and the like, different types of wedges play specific roles. The most common type you'll encounter is the splitting wedge, crucial for forestry and firewood processing. Driven into a log with a sledgehammer, it exerts enormous pressure along the grain, causing the wood to split apart. These wedges are typically made of hardened steel and come in various sizes and shapes, some with a more gradual taper for easier splitting, others with a steeper angle for tougher wood.
Then there are felling wedges, specifically designed for tree felling. Used in conjunction with a chainsaw, these plastic or aluminum wedges are inserted into the saw kerf to prevent the tree from pinching the saw bar and to help guide the tree's fall in the desired direction. They're lightweight and brightly colored for visibility.
Beyond wood, wedges are vital for other equipment applications. Shims, a type of thin wedge, are used for leveling and aligning machinery. Imagine installing a new washing machine; shims can be slipped under the feet to ensure it sits perfectly level on an uneven floor. Similarly, they're used in construction to level door and window frames.
Ropes and wedges often work together, particularly in scenarios involving tensioning or securing. A simple example is using a wedge to tighten a rope securing a load on a truck or trailer. By driving the wedge further in, you increase the tension on the rope, ensuring the load stays put.
In essence, wedges are force multipliers, simple yet effective tools that enhance the functionality of various equipment. From felling trees to leveling appliances, their versatility and ability to amplify force make them indispensable components in a wide range of applications.
When it comes to tree felling, the chainsaw often steals the show. But amidst the roar of the saw and the satisfying crack of timber, lies a less glamorous but equally crucial set of tools: ropes and knots. Overlooking their importance is a rookie mistake, one that can lead to anything from an inefficient fell to a downright dangerous situation. Think of ropes and knots as the silent directors of the operation, guiding the tree's descent and ensuring the safety of everyone involved.
The types of rope used vary, but generally, strong, durable synthetic ropes like polypropylene or polyester are preferred for their resistance to rot and abrasion. Avoid natural fiber ropes like manila, as they can degrade quickly under the stresses of tree work. Diameter depends on the size of the tree, with thicker ropes used for larger trees. It's essential to inspect ropes regularly for wear and tear, retiring any that show signs of damage. A frayed rope is a recipe for disaster.
Now, let's talk knots. Knowing a few key knots is like having an extra set of hands in the field. The timber hitch, for example, is a simple but effective knot for securing a rope to a log or tree trunk. It's easy to tie and release, even under tension. The bowline is another essential knot, forming a strong loop that won't slip. It's perfect for creating anchor points or attaching ropes to pulling equipment. Then there's the clove hitch, a versatile knot for securing a rope to a branch or ring. It's quick to tie and holds securely, making it ideal for temporary attachments.
Beyond these basic knots, learning more advanced techniques like the running bowline or the Blake's hitch can significantly enhance your control over the felling process. These knots allow for adjustable tension and controlled lowering, crucial for felling trees in tight spaces or near structures.
In conclusion, while the chainsaw might be the star of the tree felling show, ropes and knots are the unsung heroes. They provide the control and safety necessary for a successful and efficient operation. Investing time in learning proper rope handling techniques and essential knots is an investment in your safety and the quality of your work. Don't underestimate the power of a well-tied knot – it can be the difference between a controlled descent and a chaotic crash.
Safe tree cutting relies heavily on proper technique, but even the most skilled arborist is at risk without the right Personal Protective Equipment (PPE). Think of it like this: you wouldn't drive a car without a seatbelt, and you shouldn't fell a tree without protecting yourself. We're talking about serious business here, with chainsaws, falling branches, and the potential for significant injury.
So, what's essential? First and foremost, head protection. A good quality helmet with a face shield and ear protection is non-negotiable. It protects your skull from falling debris, your eyes from sawdust and wood chips, and your ears from the deafening roar of the chainsaw. Trust me, your future self will thank you for preserving your hearing.
Next up: eye protection. Even if your helmet has a visor, dedicated safety glasses are a smart backup. They provide a snug fit and prevent dust and debris from getting in your eyes, which can be incredibly distracting and dangerous when operating a chainsaw.
Hand protection is also crucial. Sturdy gloves with good grip are essential for handling chainsaws, ropes, and other equipment. They protect your hands from cuts, scrapes, and blisters, and improve your control over the tools you're using. Look for gloves specifically designed for chainsaw use, as they often have a reinforced layer on one hand to provide extra protection against accidental contact with the blade.
Moving down, proper leg protection is a must. Chainsaw chaps or trousers are designed with special fibers that clog the chainsaw's teeth upon contact, preventing serious leg injuries. They might seem bulky, but the protection they offer is invaluable. Regular work trousers just won't cut it (pun intended).
Finally, sturdy footwear with steel toe caps and good ankle support is essential. These boots protect your feet from falling debris and provide stability on uneven terrain. A good pair of boots can also help prevent slips and falls, which are a common cause of injury in tree cutting.
Remember, PPE isn't just about following regulations; it's about protecting yourself from serious harm. Investing in quality PPE and wearing it correctly every single time you operate a chainsaw or work around falling trees is an investment in your own well-being. Don't take shortcuts; your safety is worth it.
Arboriculture (/ˈɑËÂÂrbÉ™rɪˌkÊŒltʃər, É‘ËÂÂrˈbÉâ€ÂËÂÂr-/)[1] is the cultivation, management, and study of individual trees, shrubs, vines, and other perennial woody plants. The science of arboriculture studies how these plants grow and respond to cultural practices and to their environment. The practice of arboriculture includes cultural techniques such as selection, planting, training, fertilization, pest and pathogen control, pruning, shaping, and removal.
A person who practices or studies arboriculture can be termed an arborist or an arboriculturist. A tree surgeon is more typically someone who is trained in the physical maintenance and manipulation of trees and therefore more a part of the arboriculture process rather than an arborist. Risk management, legal issues, and aesthetic considerations have come to play prominent roles in the practice of arboriculture. Businesses often need to hire arboriculturists to complete "tree hazard surveys" and generally manage the trees on-site to fulfill occupational safety and health obligations.[citation needed]
Arboriculture is primarily focused on individual woody plants and trees maintained for permanent landscape and amenity purposes, usually in gardens, parks or other populated settings, by arborists, for the enjoyment, protection, and benefit of people.[citation needed]
Arboricultural matters are also considered to be within the practice of urban forestry yet the clear and separate divisions are not distinct or discreet.[citation needed]
Tree benefits are the economic, ecological, social and aesthetic use, function purpose, or services of a tree (or group of trees), in its situational context in the landscape.
A tree defect is any feature, condition, or deformity of a tree that indicates weak structure or instability that could contribute to tree failure.
Common types of tree defects:
Codominant stems: two or more stems that grow upward from a single point of origin and compete with one another.
Included bark: bark is incorporated in the joint between two limbs, creating a weak attachment
Dead, diseased, or broken branches:
Cracks
Cavity and hollows: sunken or open areas wherein a tree has suffered injury followed by decay. Further indications include: fungal fruiting structures, insect or animal nests.
Lean: a lean of more than 40% from vertical presents a risk of tree failure
Taper: change in diameter over the length of trunks branches and roots
Epicormic branches (water sprouts in canopy or suckers from root system): often grow in response to major damage or excessive pruning
Roots:
Proper tree installation ensures the long-term viability of the tree and reduces the risk of tree failure.
Quality nursery stock must be used. There must be no visible damage or sign of disease. Ideally the tree should have good crown structure. A healthy root ball should not have circling roots and new fibrous roots should be present at the soil perimeter. Girdling or circling roots should be pruned out. Excess soil above the root flare should be removed immediately, since it presents a risk of disease ingress into the trunk.
Appropriate time of year to plant: generally fall or early spring in temperate regions of the northern hemisphere.
Planting hole: the planting hole should be 3 times the width of the root ball. The hole should be dug deep enough that when the root ball is placed on the substrate, the root flare is 3–5cm above the surrounding soil grade. If soil is left against the trunk, it may lead to bark, cambium and wood decay. Angular sides to the planting hole will encourage roots to grow radially from the trunk, rather than circling the planting hole. In urban settings, soil preparation may include the use of:
Tree wells: a zone of mulch can be installed around the tree trunk to: limit root zone competition (from turf or weeds), reduce soil compaction, improve soil structure, conserve moisture, and keep lawn equipment at a distance. No more than 5–10cm of mulch should be used to avoid suffocating the roots. Mulch must be kept approximately 20cm from the trunk to avoid burying the root flare. With city trees additional tree well preparation includes:
Tree grates/grill and frames: limit compaction on root zone and mechanical damage to roots and trunk
Root barriers: forces roots to grow down under surface asphalt/concrete/pavers to limit infrastructure damage from roots
Staking: newly planted, immature trees should be staked for one growing season to allow for the root system to establish. Staking for longer than one season should only be considered in situations where the root system has failed to establish sufficient structural support. Guy wires can be used for larger, newly planted trees. Care must be used to avoid stem girdling from the support system ties.
Irrigation: irrigation infrastructure may be installed to ensure a regular water supply throughout the lifetime of the tree. Wicking beds are an underground reservoir from which water is wicked into soil. Watering bags may be temporarily installed around tree stakes to provide water until the root system becomes established. Permeable paving allows for water infiltration in paved urban settings, such as parks and walkways.
Within the United Kingdom trees are considered as a material consideration within the town planning system and may be conserved as amenity landscape[2] features.
The role of the Arborist or Local Government Arboricultural Officer is likely to have a great effect on such matters. Identification of trees of high quality which may have extensive longevity is a key element in the preservation of trees.
Urban and rural trees may benefit from statutory protection under the Town and Country Planning[3] system. Such protection can result in the conservation and improvement of the urban forest as well as rural settlements.
Historically the profession divides into the operational and professional areas. These might be further subdivided into the private and public sectors. The profession is broadly considered as having one trade body known as the Arboricultural Association, although the Institute of Chartered Foresters offers a route for professional recognition and chartered arboriculturist status.
The qualifications associated with the industry range from vocational to Doctorate. Arboriculture is a comparatively young industry.
Tree care is the application of arboricultural methods like pruning, trimming, and felling/thinning[1] in built environments. Road verge, greenways, backyard and park woody vegetation are at the center of attention for the tree care industry. Landscape architecture and urban forestry[2][3] also set high demands on professional tree care. High safety standards against the dangers of tree care have helped the industry evolve. Especially felling in space-limited environments poses significant risks: the vicinity of power or telephone lines, insufficient protective gear (against falling dead wood, chainsaw wounds, etc.) and narrow felling zones with endangered nearby buildings, parking cars, etc.. The required equipment and experience usually transcends private means and is often considered too costly as a permanent part of the public infrastructure. In singular cases, traditional tools like handsaws may suffice, but large-scale tree care usually calls for heavy machinery like cranes, bucket trucks, harvesters, and woodchippers.
Road side trees are especially prone to abiotic stress by exhaust fumes, toxic road debris, soil compaction, and drought which makes them susceptible to fungal infections and various plant pests[4] like the spotted lantern fly.[5] When tree removal is not an option, because of road ecology considerations, the main challenge is to achieve road safety (visibility of road signs, blockage-free lanes, etc.) while maintaining tree health.
While the perceived risk of death by falling trees (a part of the "tree risk" complex) is influenced by media and often hyped (the objective risk has been reported to be close to 1 : 10.000.000, almost as low as death by lightning),[6] singular events have encouraged a "proactive" stance so that even lightly damaged trees are likely to be removed in urban and public traffic surroundings.[3] As a tree ages and nears the end of its safe useful life expectancy (SULE),[7] its perceived amenity value is decreased greatly. A risk assessment normally carried out by local council's arborist to determine the best course of action.[8][9] As with all public green spaces, trees in green urban spaces and their careful conservation is sometimes in conflict with aggressive urban development even though it is often understood how urban trees contribute to liveability of suburbs and cities both objectively (reduction of urban heat island effect, etc.) and subjectively.[10][11][12][13] Tree planting programs implemented by a growing number of cities, local councils and organizations is mitigating the losses and in most cases increasing the number of trees in suburbia.[14] Programs include the planting of 2 trees for every 1 tree removed, while some councils are paying land owners to keep trees instead of removing them for farming or construction.[15]
The voluntary industry consensus standards developed by TCIA, resulted in the ANSI A300 standard, the generally accepted industry standard for tree care practices including trees, shrubs, and other woody plants.[16] It includes the following parts:
Urban Forestry maintains 4.1 million trees on public property, which includes an estimated 3.5 million trees within Toronto's parks and ravines, and approximately 600,000 trees on City streets. ... The focus of our maintenance service is shifting progressively from reactive maintenance to proactive maintenance.
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Ho Chi Minh City has announced a plan to move and cut down 300 trees on Ton Duc Thang Street in District 1 to make space for a bridge connecting to District 2 and a metro station.
Pruning is a horticultural, arboricultural, and silvicultural practice involving the selective removal of certain parts of a plant, such as branches, buds, or roots.
The practice entails the targeted removal of diseased, damaged, dead, non-productive, structurally unsound, or otherwise unwanted plant material from crop and landscape plants. In general, the smaller the branch that is cut, the easier it is for a woody plant to compartmentalize the wound and thus limit the potential for pathogen intrusion and decay. It is therefore preferable to make any necessary formative structural pruning cuts to young plants, rather than removing large, poorly placed branches from mature plants.
Woody plants may undergo a process referred to as "self-pruning", where they will drop twigs or branches which are no longer producing more energy than they require. It is theorized that this process can also occur in response to lack of water, in order to reduce the surface area where water can be lost.[1] This natural shedding of branches is called cladoptosis.
Specialized pruning practices may be applied to certain plants, such as roses, fruit trees, and grapevines. Different pruning techniques may be used on herbaceous plants than those used on perennial woody plants.
Reasons to prune plants include deadwood removal, shaping (by controlling or redirecting growth), improving or sustaining health, reducing risk from falling branches, preparing nursery specimens for transplanting, and both harvesting and increasing the yield or quality of flowers and fruits.
Branch wood is an individual stem that grows off of another stem.
Trunk wood is the main stem of a tree which individual stems grow out of.
This refers to the area below the union of where branch wood attaches with the trunk/stem wood. This can often appear raised.
This refers to the junction between branch wood and trunk/stem wood. It usually looks raised. [2]
Pruning in an urban setting is crucial due to the tree being in drastically different conditions than where it naturally grows.[3]
Arborists, orchardists, and gardeners use various garden tools and tree cutting tools designed for the purpose, such as secateurs, loppers, handsaws, or chainsaws.[4] Additionally in forestry, pole pruners (averruncators in British English) and pole saws are commonly used, and these are often attached to poles that reach up to 5–6 m (16–20 ft). This is a more efficient and safer way of pruning than with ladders. These bush saws on polls have also been motorized as chainsaws which is even more efficient. Older technology used Billhooks, Kaiser blades, and pruning knives. Although still used in some coppicing, they are not used so much in commercial forestry due to the difficulty of cutting flush with the stem. Flush cuts happen when a pruner cuts into the cambium layer of the main trunk, which can happen when a pruner is not precise with pruning cuts, and removes a portion of the branch collar, which can put the tree at risk of entry cords from forest pathogens.
Although there are several different types of pruning, they can be simplified into two categories. One of which is cutting the branch back to a specific and intermediate point, called a "reduction cut", and the other of which is completely removing a branch back to the union where the branch connects which the main trunk, called "removal cut".[5]
A "reduction cut" is when one removes a portion of a growing stem down to a set of desirable buds or side-branching stems. This is commonly performed in well trained plants for a variety of reasons, for example to stimulate growth of flowers, fruit or branches, as a preventive measure to wind and snow damage on long stems and branches, and finally to encourage growth of the stems in a desirable direction.
In orchards, fruit trees are often lopped to encourage regrowth and to maintain a smaller tree for ease of picking fruit. The pruning regime in orchards is more planned, and the productivity of each tree is an important factor.
Branches die off for a number of reasons including sunlight deficiency, pest and disease damage, and root structure damage. A dead branch will at some point decay back to the parent stem and fall off. This is normally a slow process but can be hastened by high winds or extreme temperatures. The main reason deadwooding is performed is safety. Situations that usually demand removal of deadwood include trees that overhang public roads, houses, public areas, power lines, telephone cables and gardens. Trees located in wooded areas are usually assessed as lower risk but assessments consider the number of visitors. Trees adjacent to footpaths and access roads are often considered for deadwood removal.[8]
Another reason for deadwooding is amenity value, i.e. a tree with a large amount of deadwood throughout the crown will look more aesthetically pleasing with the deadwood removed. The physical practice of deadwooding can be carried out most of the year though should be avoided when the tree is coming into leaf. The deadwooding process speeds up the tree's natural abscission process. It also reduces unwanted weight and wind resistance and can help overall balance.
Preventative and structural pruning can be done to mitigate several issues young trees may have in the future. The structural pruning can reduce tree stress, increase the lifespan of trees, and promotes resistance to damage due to natural weather events. Attributes of trees with good structure include excurrent growth by having a single dominant leader, branch unions without included bark, and a balanced canopy. Structural pruning does this by developing or maintaining a dominant leader, identify the lowest branches in the canopy, prevent branches below the permanent canopy from growing too large, keeping all branches less than one half the trunk diameter, space main branches along one dominant trunk, and suppress growth on branches with included bark. [9]
Subordination pruning is done on limbs that will exceed 50% percent of the stem diameter. A reduction cut may be performed while still allowing about 50% of the branch. This is done to help maintain form and deter the formation of co-dominant leaders. Temporary branches may be too large for a removal cut so subordination pruning should be done to slowly reduce a limb by 50% each year to allow the tree to properly heal from the cut. As a tree becomes larger the slower it grows. Reducing the larger limbs for eventual removal will allow for the tree to promote new growth rather than using energy in encouraging unwanted limbs to continue to grow. Removing a large branch increases the likelihood of the cut to not heal properly which also may attract insects, diseases and fungus. [9][10]
Crown thinning is the removal of live healthy branches which increases light penetration, air circulation and reduces wind resistance which reduces risks from damage and the possibility of pest infestation. [11]
Crown raising involves the removal of the lower branches to a given height. The height is achieved by the removal of whole branches or removing the parts of branches which extend below the desired height. The branches are normally not lifted to more than one third of the tree's total height.
Crown lifting is done for access; these being pedestrian, vehicle or space for buildings and street furniture. Lifting the crown will allow traffic and pedestrians to pass underneath safely. This pruning technique is usually used in the urban environment as it is for public safety and aesthetics rather than tree form and timber value.
Crown lifting introduces light to the lower part of the trunk; this, in some species can encourage epicormic growth from dormant buds. To reduce this sometimes smaller branches are left on the lower part of the trunk. Excessive removal of the lower branches can displace the canopy weight, this will make the tree top heavy, therefore adding stress to the tree. When a branch is removed from the trunk, it creates a large wound. This wound is susceptible to disease and decay, and could lead to reduced trunk stability. Therefore, much time and consideration must be taken when choosing the height the crown is to be lifted to.
This would be an inappropriate operation if the tree species’ form was of a shrubby nature. This would therefore remove most of the foliage and would also largely unbalance the tree. This procedure should not be carried out if the tree is in decline, poor health or dead, dying or dangerous (DDD) as the operation will remove some of the photosynthetic area the tree uses. This will increase the decline rate of the tree and could lead to death.
If the tree is of great importance to an area or town, (i.e. veteran or ancient) then an alternative solution to crown lifting would be to move the target or object so it is not in range. For example, diverting a footpath around a tree's drip line so the crown lift is not needed. Another solution would be to prop up or cable-brace the low hanging branch. This is a non-invasive solution which in some situations may be more economical and environmentally friendly. [12]
Selectively pruning a window of view in a tree.
Reducing the height and or spread of a tree by selectively cutting back to smaller branches and in fruit trees for increasing of light interception and enhancing fruit quality.
A regular form of pruning where certain deciduous species are pruned back to pollard heads every year in the dormant period. This practice is usually commenced on juvenile trees so they can adapt to the harshness of the practice. This practice can be used for tree shaping but is also used in specific species which young branches can be sold for floral arrangements.
Deadheading is the act of removing spent flowers or flowerheads for aesthetics, to prolong bloom for up to several weeks or promote rebloom, or to prevent seeding.
In general, pruning deadwood and small branches can be done at any time of year. Depending on the species, many temperate plants can be pruned either during dormancy in winter, or, for species where winter frost can harm a recently pruned plant, after flowering is completed. In the temperate areas of the northern hemisphere autumn pruning should be avoided, as the spores of disease and decay fungi are abundant at this time of year.
Some woody plants tend to bleed profusely from cuts, such as mesquite and maple. Some callus over slowly, such as magnolia. In this case, they are better pruned during active growth when they can more readily heal. Woody plants that flower early in the season, on spurs that form on wood that has matured the year before, such as apples, should be pruned right after flowering as later pruning will sacrifice flowers the following season. Forsythia, azaleas and lilacs all fall into this category.